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Do you have an old area rug you want to get rid of? I know getting rid of an old rug is hard and most trash pick up companies won't take them.  If it's not beyond it's natural life, I'm willing to pick it up, clean and sanitize it at no cost to you, and donate it to someone less fortunate and will also deliver it. This also keeps rugs out of our landfills. If you know someone that would love to have one of the rugs posted below, you can either call me at 339-613-7565 or email kevin@alistcarpetcleaning.com.

Here's what is up for adoption...

8 x 10 wool shag rug. Worn out around where a bed used to be.
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5 1/2 x 8 wool Karastan. Beautiful rug and still in amazing shape!

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5 1/2 x 7 1/2 nylon rug.

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5'3" X 7"10" Olifin. In perfect shape!

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6' 6" x 10' Olifin. In great shape!

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As winter is here, the temperatures outside are frigged. Companies with truck mounts either have to bring their hoses in through your door or window. From letting all your heat out or your cat or dog possibly sneaking out, who wants to keep a door or window open? With a portable, once we're in, we're in!

b2ap3_thumbnail_CRI_Seal_of_Approval_Program.pngOkay, isn't a truck mount more powerful? Not with today's portable machines. My machine I run has earned an award from The Carpet and Rug Institute. It has dual vacuums to improve suction and reduce drying times and I also use the best wand available which has also received that same award. Typical drying times are 4-6 hours and with larger jobs I'm able to run a fan and usually get most of what I cleaned dry before I even leave.

Don't the truck mounts produce super heat? They do, bet so does my machine and it's actually hotter than a truck mounts. Heat plays a big role in cleaning. Every 18 degrees of water temperature doubles the efficiency of the detergent up to about 180 degrees. It also helps relax the fibers and melt and greasy soiling that may be on the fiber.

With a truck mount the water is heated by the engine of the tuck, then pumped through hundreds of feet of hose. By the time it actually hits the carpet it has lost lots of it's heat. Especially in the winter when they are running there hose through the snow. With my portable, it's heated at the machine and only run through either 25 or 50 feet of hose. So I am actually hitting the fibers with a higher degree of temperature. I also have an ajustment on my machine to adjust the temperature I'm running. As not all fibers should be cleaned with maximum heat, like wool for instance.

The huge benefit of running a portable is control! I can constantly make adjustments to my temperature and detergents. I can easily clean one room (say it's a synthetic carpet) using one type of detergent, and within a flash, change my temperature and detergent to clean a wool carpet that is in the next room.

So no need to be afraid to get your carpets cleaned in the winter months, whether it be afraid of leaving the doors open, or settling for a lesser quality job by thinking portables aren't as good!

Kevin Houle
A-List Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning, LLC
(339) 613-7565

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b2ap3_thumbnail_922755_571132132930768_240889415_n.jpgDid you know A-List can clean custom window treatments?

A client recently told me that "Drap It" does not recommend cleaning their window treatments, as issues may arise. Well, "Drap It" has no cleaning experience and they are wrong! I clean over 200 window treatments a year and have never had an issue.

I prefer to do them in-house as I can clean both sides along with out risking any damage from the vacuum pulling on them while they are hanging. I first measure each window treatment prior to taking them down. I also mark each panel so they don't get mixed up and also take pictures.

They are then taken back to my shop where the most care is taken and they are thoroughly cleaned, both front and back. They are hung to dry, folded after drying, and bagged. They are then delivered and rehung and any wrinkles are steamed out, leaving you a clean and crisp window treatment like the day they were installed.

I guarantee them not to shrink. If they can't be taken down, they can be done in place. As always, I'd be glad to stop by and evaluate the job prior and give a FREE quote.

Kevin Houle
A-List Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning, LLC
(339) 613-7565



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b2ap3_thumbnail_club-soda_20131118-230735_1.jpgHow many times have you heard to use club soda on a stain?

Well, guess what. It's not actually any better than just plain water. The concept behind it is that the carbonation acts as a mechanical function to push the stain away from the fibers. Club soda also contains salts which the claim is they absorb the stain as well.

The truth is, the carbonation and level of salts are so low that there is no scientific evidence that can prove that club soda out performs just plain water.

The real fact is, the faster you can react to a stain an absorb it with paper towels to remove as much as possible first and then either dilute it or flush it out with water next, the less of a stain will remain or even better total success.


b2ap3_thumbnail_hydrogen-peroxide.jpgHydrogen Peroxide, great for Boo-Boo's!

By boo-boo's I mean your wine stains. Most carpet cleaners don't even know this trick! Hydrogen Peroxide is basically a color safe bleach that will oxidize your wine stains out of just about anything. It works great on just about any weak vegetable dye, so wine, blueberry stains, etc and your vegetable dyes on your oriental.

This is safe on all synthetics, most cottons and I'd email me first if you have a unique or unsure situation, like wool, and oriental or silk. It's not a time sensitive type stain so you have plenty of time to test in an inconspicuous spot first to make sure it's not causing damage.



b2ap3_thumbnail_Natures-Miracle.jpgPet Stain Removers, more to the eye than you think!

Most pet stain removers are enzyme based, and actually work lousy for removing pet stains and their odor, but work great for removing basic organic stains, like food and general everyday things.

These cleaners are neutral and I wish everyone had it as a first response to just general spills. I have never had a client ruin something from these except maybe by over wetting.

It's a great cleaner to have under your counter.



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Hair Spray

Works great on ink stains!, why? It's actually the alcohol in it that's doing the work. Rubbing alcohol works great for removing ink but can also dissolve the oils or varnish that is used as a carrying agent and leave just the dyes behind after. This is one of those stains you probably don't want to play with on something expensive. 

If you decide to do so, I recommend trying a very small area first to make sure it's removing it. This type of stain can be very tricky!



I hope some of these tips will help you get through the Holidays. If you have any questions I always encourage you to email me first before you ruin your investment. I've coached tons of people through getting a stain out over text, emails or phone calls. I'm here to help you protect your investments.

 

Kevin Houle
A-List Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning, LLC
(339) 613-7565

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You might be a little frustrated right now because house training is not progressing as fast as you had hoped. Your puppy just doesn't seem to get it... Or, maybe you are planning ahead and want to start potty training on the right paw !

Every puppy presents different challenges, but there are common instincts that will facilitate the house training process. This article will detail a training program with techniques that will house train your puppy as soon as possible and foster a trusting and loving relationship between you and your pup.

It's normal for a young puppy to be a little 'input-output' machine. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! Puppies have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can't 'hold it' as long as adult dogs.

Puppies need time to developed a "den" instinct to cause them to want to 'hold it' and not soil the den, i.e., your entire house. In their litter, puppies just go whenever and wherever they happen to be! Successful house training depends upon your diligent supervision so you can be there to show your pup where to eliminate.

Just so you know, a puppy is never completely housetrained until they are 6 months old. For some breeds, even later. This means that though you may be making tremendous progress housetraining, there will be "mistakes". Sometimes for reasons you can't figure out! Don't fret about it. Stay focused on the progress you are making. Your confidence in the techniques you are using to house train your puppy will ensure your success.

Your Five Rules for House Training

• Give your puppy frequent access to his toilet area - prevent soiling in the house.

• Reward the pup for peeing or pooping in the right place - use a special treat.

• Never punish the pup for housetraining "mistakes" - scolding has dire consequences.

• Put your puppy on a regular and timely feeding schedule - in/out clockwork.

• Know when your puppy last eliminated - keep a diary.

How often do puppies have to potty?

Most puppies have to eliminate about every 30-45 minutes except, of course, when sleeping. Their elimination schedule will depend upon when they last ate or drank water; rambunctious physical activity; and the big unknown - personal preference! That's right - every pup has their own inherent elimination schedule. The good news is, puppies sleep alot!

The section below on "HouseTraining Taxi Service" will tell you WHEN to give your pup immediate access to her toilet area. For now - keep reading.

If your puppy is not sleeping in her crate or pen, and is out in the house, you must follow her around to know what she is doing: chewing a bone, running circles, getting a drink of water, etc. In fact, don't take your eye off of her! If you cannot watch her continuously, you must put her back into her pen or crate to prevent potty training "mistakes".

Regular feedings will house train a puppy faster

It's very important to put your puppy on a regular and timely feeding schedule; What goes in on a regular schedule will come out on a regular schedule. Every pup is different; some poop immediately after eating; with others it may be 30 minutes to an hour after eating. Unless advised by your vet for some medical reason, do not free-feed. That is, do not leave food out all the time. For two reasons: First, your pup's elimination schedule will be random at best. And second, she will not necessarily associate you as the provider of her food (see our article on being a pack leader and winning a puppy's respect and trust).

Always leave water out for your puppy. Check the water bowl frequently to note how much she is drinking and to make sure the water bowl is full.

The best way to potty train a puppy

Confinement to a small area such as a bathroom or an enclosed exercise pen in combination with confinement to a crate works best.

This method is the most effective and flexible. Your pup needs to develop his natural "den instinct" and learn where to eliminate - and where not to. To potty train our puppy we must condition a desire in the pup to avoid soiling the "den" - your house. Confinement and your due diligence in providing access outside the "den" to potty and poop will develop this instinct and eventual desire. When and how to use confinement is described in detail below.

Choose a designated toilet area for House Training

So, where do you want to train your puppy to always potty and poop? The puppy toilet area needs to be accessible very quickly.

• If you live in a high rise apartment, or a street level apartment or home with DIFFICULT outdoor access, use a bathroom or pen in the home for housetraining.

• If, however, you live in a street level apartment or home with EASY outdoor access, use a specific, very close outdoor location and use "Housetraining Taxi Service." You will still use an indoor pen for housetraining purposes, but outdoors will be your puppy's primary toilet area.

Get the items you need for housetraining and set up the household:

• A few bottles of Nature's Miracle or similar product to remove urine and fecal stains and odor. Place these in a central or multiple locations in your house with paper towels.

• A crate that will fit next to your bed but only large enough to accomodate your puppy when full grown. I prefer the wire type for a full view of the puppy. Get one that also collapses for easy transporting.

• An exercise pen that your puppy cannot jump out of. Put the exercise pen in a central location where you spend most of your time at home. You may want to put a tarp down first then set the pen on top of it.

• Special housetraining treats (rewards) - something small and special, reserved and used only for a housetraining reward. These treats should be kept close to the designated toilet area.

• An uplifting, cheery, excited tone of voice to carry with you at all times ( do they have that at the pet store? ).

"HouseTraining Taxi Service"

What ? To house train my puppy I have to call a cab? Well, not exactly, here's the scoop. Puppies will decide to potty or poop instantly, giving you no warning. So many times when housetraining, a puppy is led to the door and on the way they just stop and do their business. This usually happens because the puppy has not developed enough bladder or bowel control yet to "hold it" until they get to the toilet area or they simply don't know where the toilet area is yet. Not only has the pup made "a mistake," but you have lost a chance to reward for going in the right place.

The key to house training is preventing "mistakes" and rewarding the puppy for going in your chosen spot.

"HouseTraining Taxi Service" is simply picking the puppy up into your arms, taking them to the designated toilet area, setting them down and praising them for going where you want. If you are going outside, put a collar and leash on the pup immediately after picking them up, unless the toilet area is safely enclosed and escape proof.

When should you provide "HouseTraining Taxi Service"

• Immediately upon your puppy waking up (morning, noon or night).

• Immediately after they finish eating, get a big drink of water, and after excited play.

• When you think they might have to go - about every 45 minutes.

Better too often than too late!

• When your puppy whines in the crate in the middle of the night or whines in their pen during the day. Take them out to potty, reward for going and put them right back. If they continue to whine, see our article on whining and crying.

• When your puppy is standing at the door to the outside. Why not just let them out, you say? Well, he may not make it all the way to the toilet area, potty or poop in the "wrong" place and you have missed a housetraining opportunity!

For how long should you provide "HouseTraining Taxi Service" ?

Taxi your pup for about one month (until the pup is about 3 months old as this should give the pup enough time to develop some bladder and bowel control). By doing so, you will prevent many mistakes. At the same time you will train a stong preference in your pup to eliminate in your chosen spot. The pup will also learn that being picked up gets - kisses !

If you have a large breed puppy and can't pick them up, slip on a leash quickly and "rush" them to the potty area, do not stop until you are there !

House Training Warnings - "I'm gonna go!"

Guess what, you get no warning before a young puppy is about to potty! They just squat and do it... in an instant. So, if they potty in the wrong place, you didn't take them to their potty area soon enough - plain and simple.

However, with a poop you might get some warning - sometimes sniffing; usually circling by the puppy. By paying close attention to your puppy when they are out and about in the house, you may get a heads-up.

What to do if you catch your puppy in the act of a potty training "mistake"...

If pup is peeing in the wrong place... you may be able to stop him. Move quickly towards him when he begins to pee and pick him up. Urgency is key here - you want to startle the pup just a little as you move towards them to pick them up, but you DO NOT want to scare the pup. You are redirecting your puppy to the right spot - not disciplining him. Immediately after picking him up, take him to the potty area and patiently wait. Most pups will finish there. Reward your pup with exuberance!

If the pup is pooping... let them finish. Puppies are not able to shut off a poop like they can shut off a pee. More likely than not, you'll just create a huge mess by trying to interupt a poop.

As always, never make a big deal about cleaning up after your puppy when an accident occurs.

Housetraining at your bedtime and when you wake up

Just before you go to bed and turn out the lights, go get your puppy, no matter where she may be, asleep or not, and taxi her to the potty area. Reward and praise as always for eliminating. Put her in the crate next to your bed and retire for the night.

First thing in the morning, take her out of the crate and taxi her to the potty area. Return her to the crate or pen unless you are able to supervise her without distraction. Feeding is usually next up. Feed your pup breakfast around the same time each morning and in the same location.

Passive House Training When you are NOT Home

Confine your puppy to his, 'puppy-proofed' bathroom or an exercise pen and paper (or wee-wee pad) the entire floor. Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go every where and any where. He will also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little den. Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don't get upset; just accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.

While your puppy is confined to the bathroom or his pen, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well established and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, then gradually reduce the area that is papered. Start removing the paper that is furthest away from his chosen location. Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that place only. If he ever misses the paper, then you've reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering a larger area.

Once your puppy is reliably going only on the papers you've left, then you can slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. Move the papers a little bit each day. If puppy misses the paper, then you're moving too fast. Go back a few steps and start over. Don't be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire area. This is normal. There will always be minor set-backs. If you stick with this procedure, your puppy will be paper trained.

House Training When You ARE Home

When you are home but can't attend to your puppy, follow the same procedures described above. However, the more time you spend with your puppy, the quicker he will be house trained. Your objective is to take your puppy to his toilet area every time he needs to eliminate. This should be about once every 30-45 minutes; just upon waking; just after eating or drinking; and just after a play session. Provide house training taxi service to avoid unnecessary "mistakes".

When your pup does eliminate in his toilet area, praise and reward him profusely and enthusiastically! Don't use any type of reprimand or punishment for mistakes or accidents. Your puppy is too young to understand and it can set the house training process back drastically.

Don't allow your puppy freedom outside of his room or pen unless you know absolutely for sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. When you do let him out, don't let him out of your sight. It is a good idea to have him on leash when he is exploring your home. He can't get into trouble if you are attached to the other end of the leash. Never, ever tie the puppy's leash to something and leave the puppy unattended.

As your puppy becomes more reliable about using his toilet area and his bowel and bladder control develops, he can begin to spend more time outside his room or pen with you in the rest of your home. Begin by giving him access to one room at a time. Let him eat, sleep and play in this room but only when he can be supervised. When you cannot supervise him, put him back in his room or pen.

Active House Training

The most important thing you can do to make house training happen as quickly as possible is to reward and praise your puppy every time he goes in the right place. The more times he is rewarded, the quicker he will learn. Therefore it's important that you spend as much time as possible with your puppy and give him regular and frequent access to his toilet area.

The Key To Successful House Training

Consistency and Patience. Never scold or punish your puppy for mistakes and accidents. The older your pup gets, the more he will be able to control his bladder and bowels. Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be able to "hold it" for longer and longer periods of time. Let your puppy do this on his own time. When training is rushed, problems usually develop. Don't forget, most puppies are not completely house trained until they are 6 months old.


Kevin Houle
A-List Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning, LLC
(339) 613-7565

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There's some truth to that and some myth. Here's some education on that subject.

When you buy a new carpet, the nylon or whatever synthetic fiber is extruded through a spinneret and is smooth like glass with microscopic pores. It is then spayed with dye that collects in those micro pores. Then the manufacturer puts on some form of fabric protection (like scothgard). This puts microscopic dots along the surface of the fiber, which acts like how a non stick pan works by creating a surface reducing surface tension. So basically, you have a semi bullet proof carpet when it is new.

So a year or two go by. Your carpet  has had no care needed but starting to show in the traffic areas. What's happening is the fabric protection is wearing off, along with now the fiber is starting to develop scratches in it from wear and tear. Dirt and oils can now penetrate the protective finish along with collect into the scratches of the fiber.

So now you have your carpets cleaned. Depending on the level of the soiling or the knowledge of the carpet cleaner, some of the detergents a carpet cleaner uses, especially presprays, will remove any protective finish, leaving your fibers naked from protection. Another scenario is the cleaner leaving a residual on the fiber attracting soil.

More frequent, lighter cleanings will extend the life of your protective finish. And if your protective finish is worn off, I can re-apply it, making the need for cleanings less frequent.


For more info or a free evaluation give me a call at 339-613-7565 or send me an email at kevin@alistcarpetcleaning.com.

Kevin Houle
A-List Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning LLC
(339) 613-7565

 

 

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